We sported the look of poised and prepared businessmen ready to take on the world but we all knew that we were internally as excited as a young college kid about to get his first motorcycle. After months of research and planning, rambling through booking options and making unnecessary/necessary purchases, the day has finally arrived. Pumped up we were, ready to take on one of the worst terrains in the world, right when the winter snow is melting. But little did we know that this journey is going to demand physical and mental strengths way beyond our imaginations/capabilities.
After almost forgetting my bike jacket and making a quick stop at Mumbai, we touch down in Srinagar to some breathtaking views from the plane. It wasn't easy to find someone who rents bikes in Srinagar, there are aplenty from Manali and in Leh but very few in Srinagar. One of them is Kashmir Bikers. The whole experience with them was nothing but mixed feelings. My bike (2007 Electra 350cc) made the best sound, Roy's (2014 Standard 350cc) was the most durable and Sunder's (2006 Electra 350cc) was the worst. It always stops, it's like it's ignition had a short term memory loss and frequently shuts off. But on the bright side, Kashmir Bikers provided helmets, luggage racks, bungee cords, a rain cover big enough to even cover yourself after covering the luggage, 2 extra cans to carry extra petrol and a super smooth talking owner who can even sell you the idea of driving from Srinagar to Leh on a Kinetic Luna.
We stocked up with snacks, racked up our luggages and started off... to Kargil, our first destination. After utterly failing at our "innovative" hand signal communication and passing through numerous small villages, green fields, fresh himalayan streams and high fives to kids along the way we stopped at Sonamarg for our dinner. I was actually quite surprised to see the number of tourists here, made me feel a little out of place. After a hearty meal and ignoring warnings from the locals and police at checkposts we headed to Kargil. All those people we passed by were talking about one thing and one thing only, Zoji La Pass. And that it's probably not a good idea to cross it during night. At that time we had no idea that it's considered one of the 8 scariest roads in the world by Redbull (link ) and it's beginning to get dark with chilling winter winds piercing through our biker jackets.
The real beauty of Himalayas starts from here. You just cannot pass without admiring the red fiery peaks of Sonamarg mountains painted by the setting sun coupled with the funny puns (road signs) of BRO (Border Roads Organization). Slowly the road and sunlight started disappearing and dust from the road started filling our faces. Eventually the road disappeared and rocks, boulders and streams as high as our knees started welcoming us. First it was our bums but slowly our whole bodies started to ache from the constant maneuvering on rocks and slipping on streams. Our feet got wet and the night temparature wasn't helping. In fact, nothing was helping us, neither the consoling words from each other nor the view of the sea of stars above our heads. At every curve and corner, we wished there's gonna be a road in few feet that'll save us from this hell. But there wasn't until Dras. What was supposed to take only 2.5 hours (at least according to Google) took us 6 hours to reach Kargil. We couldn't thank the hotel people more for providing us with coffee and food at 1am. We slept like logs.
As we moved up the elevation, the beauty of Himalayas started to take our breath away. Literally. We arrived late in the night and after struggling through the narrow back alleys of Fort Road, we find our guesthouse in Leh. The late night Kahwah tea with biscuit served by our kind host, Shiring, served as a booster for a good night's sleep. At 11,500+ ft even a task as simple as tying your shoe lace can make you go puffing and panting. On one hand Ladakh enthralls you with it's pristine beauty while on the other it'll whip you down with it's hostility at the same time. It'll leave you with no choice but to slow down and try to find balance while you painstakingly recover from altitude sickness. It took us at least 2 days to get over it.
Not sure if it is the high altitude or the beautiful landscapes that surround them or my utmost love for Buddha, Ladakhi monastaries are one of the most serene places I've ever been to. The silent chants of the monks coupled with the howling breeze for some reason felt so comfortable to me. It's no surprise that Ladakh is filled with a ton of monastaries so one might think high about Ladakhi Buddhism. But the greatest disappointment came when a very kind monk explained us Ladakhi Buddhism in detail. Learning about how much it has transformed from the original teachings of Buddha and how much it was influenced by the better part of Hindu mythology, I can imagine Buddha himself turning over in his grave.
Visit Ladakh as a traveler, with strangers or best buddies. Don't fly to Leh instead take a car or ride a bike from Srinagar or Manali. Experience the pain of the boulders and potholes, for that pain turns into a memory when you go back home. And memories we've made. The insane laughter we shared each night innovating college songs with the most indecent of lyrics, the constant playing of the song 'Kabira' just to make Sunder believe it's his ringtone, the luxury we basked in at The Apricot Tree hotel in Nurla when stuck by a snow storm, the mishaps on Magnetic Hill, the time when we almost fell off a cliff when we brisked pass a lorry on Zoji La pass at midnight, the time when Roy thought he lost his wallet at Srinagar airport - you don't wanna get into trouble in Srinagar. Several such funny incidents of his especially the hysterical laughter me and Sunder shared when he told us he forgot his beloved daily memoir, which he calls 'Aathma Katha', in the flight from Srinagar to Delhi - the expression on his face was priceless, the funny conversations with Telugu speaking Army personnel, the stranger we met who recently left his job to travel across India and the moment of helplesness when Shiring told us that Agoda, the hotel booking service through which we and several others book with him, hasn't paid him for the last 3 months. These are just to name a few. We've left a part of ourselves in the places we visited and the people we met. In return we carried lots of memories.
Lose yourself in the vast expanse of the majestic mountains with patches of greenery by the side of pristine blue glacial rivers and brown barren lands at a distance. Enjoy the hostility of the climate for it will make you realize the value of a breathe, for it will slow you down and make you take it easy. After all that's what matters when you travel. We didn't think for a moment about what is awaiting us in the 'real' world. We just chose to delve in 'Paradise'.
I couldn't help but feel nostalgic about our battered motorcycles without which this trip wouldn't have been the same. We cursed them when they stranded us on top of Fotula Pass, when they refused to start in the early morning hours and for Sunder's constant struggle to keep his alive. But boy did they take us places? They struggled but they never gave up on us. They were our ambassadors to Ladakh. There is a certain divinity when the thundering sound of a Royal Enfield echoes in the backdrop of the majestic Himalayas.
No matter where we go, what we do and whatever misgivings life throws at us, when we look back there will always be a smile on our faces. And I hope the bond that formed between us through our disagreements and laughter will forever stay the same. Not sure when but I know I'm going back. I have a promise I made to Sunder that I have to fulfil - visiting Pangong Tso with him and then there is my love with whom I wanna share this experience with. But for now there is a 'real' world to deal with.
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